Oh la la Brioche

Brioche is a strange bread. It is somewhere between a cake, pastry and bread. In France it is often eaten for breakfast with just butter and/or jam, but it is also very good lightly toasted with butter as afternoon tea, as a basis for desserts, savoury dishes such as Cervelas Lyonnais en Brioche or coulibiac, or as a decadent version of French Toast. Like a lot of food in the Mediterranean there are similar breads throughout the region from the panbrioche from Italy, tsoureki from Greece and a few others in the Balkans.

Brioche a tete

Brioche a tete

Brioche is part of the group of bakery called Viennoiserie, which includes croissants, Danish pastries and beignets and are made from sweet, yeasted dough. Unlike normal breads, these bakery products usually have a very light flaky texture and usually are ‘laminated’. Though brioche isn’t ‘laminated’ like a croissant, the crumb is very light, and the crust is very flaky.

This is quite a wet dough, so it may be easier to mix it in a food mixer, but I did it by hand. Before cooking, the dough should be smooth and shiny, not unlike choux pastry if you’ve ever made it.

Basic Brioche Recipe

Once you’ve mastered the basic brioche recipe you could add things such as chocolate chips, lemon or orange zest to give a twist. If you are lucky enough to have proper fluted, flared brioche pan, then when placing the dough into the pan, keep a little dough to make into a ball to place on top, for the most recognised brioche shape, the Brioche a tete or parisienne.

 Ingredients

  • 3 cups (400g)  of strong white bread flour
  • 2 tsp of dried active yeast
  • 0.25 cup (50g) of sugar
  • 4 medium eggs, beaten
  • 2 tsp of salt
  • 0.5 cup (100g) of softened butter
  • 0.5 cup (100ml) warm milk
  • Glaze – Made from 1 egg beaten and a splash of milk

Method

  1. First mix all the ingredients together (except the glaze) in a large bowl, bringing everything together. Kneed the dough for about 10mins. Form the dough into a ball, place it into a bowl, cover it with plastic wrap and leave it to rise for at least a couple of hours until it has doubled in size. You can place the dough in the refrigerator overnight to rise to develop more flavour.

    Brioche Dough

    Brioche Dough

  2. Shape the dough into the shape you desire and place it into the cooking tin. Cover the dough and allow it to rise for a few hours until it has doubled in size again. I split the dough into two long pieces and braided them together and then placed them into a loaf tin.

    Braided Brioche Dough

    Braided Brioche Dough

  3. Brush the glaze over the bread and cook it in a 400F (200C) oven for 10 mins, then reduce the heat to 355F (180C) for 20 mins until the brioche is golden brown.

    Brioche

    Brioche

  4. Allow the bread to cool and then enjoy slices of it with butter or jam.

    Brioche with strawberry jam

    Brioche with strawberry jam

 

Meet Crostini’s Big Brother: The Open Face Broiled Sandwich

Call it what you will, an oversized Crostini or an Americanized Smørrebrød, the open face toasted or broiled sandwich can be as simple or complex as you wish and typically can be prepped with ingredients found in the refrigerator. The simplest of open face sandwiches that most of us are familiar with is the broiled open face cheese sandwich which has coated the bottom of more toaster ovens with melted cheese than can be numbered.

Toasted Bread Topped with Sliced Tomatoes and Broiled Feta Cheese

Broiled Feta Cheese with Sliced Tomatoes on Toasted Bread

Recently on a Saturday afternoon somehow the time had flown and we were at the magical hour where lunch is long past, but it is way too many hours until dinner. You are hungry, but know that if you eat something more akin to a lunch versus a snack then your appetite for dinner will be ruined.

I had a nice sliced load of multi grain bread from the bakery at the grocery store and knew that I wanted something more than sliced cheese broiled on a piece of bread. A little more searching in the refrigerator I found some Roma tomatoes, crumbled Feta cheese and a container of chunked Amish blue cheese. I asked Marah which cheese she wanted on her open face sandwich and she selected the Feta. I decided to go with the Blue Cheese.

One of the things that I have learned over the years is that you should first toast the bread prior to making a broiled open face sandwich.

Into the toaster oven went two slices of the multi grain sliced bread.

While the bread was toasting, I sliced some tomatoes.

Toasted Bread with Sliced Tomatoes

liced Roma Tomatoes on Toasted Multi Grain Bread

Once the bread had been toasted, the tomatoes were placed on the toast and then the Feta and Blue Cheese were liberally topped onto the sliced tomatoes. Then with a few cranks of the black pepper mill, the open face sandwiches were ready to be broiled.

Preparing an Open Face Sandwich

Preparing an Open Face Sandwich with Crumbled Cheese (Blue Cheese – front, Feta – back) with Sliced Tomatoes on Toasted Bread

The open face sandwiches were placed back into the toaster oven and broiled for about seven minutes until the cheese had begun to melt.

Toasted Bread Topped with Sliced Tomatoes and Broiled Blue Cheese

Broiled Blue Cheese with Sliced Tomatoes on Toasted Bread

Out came the broiled open face sandwiches and they were the perfect answer to a snack that needed to be more than just a snack. The ease in which these broiled open face sandwiches were made compared to the flavor of the melted Feta and Blue Cheese combined with the sliced tomatoes and fresh ground black pepper made these open face sandwiches more than just a plain snack, but something worthy of making specifically because the taste was so good.

Sunny Point Cafe in Asheville, NC: Best Huevos Rancheros Ever

I was recently on a road trip and stopped at the Sunny Point Cafe in Asheville, North Carolina (626 Haywood Road).  Rumor had it that Sunny Point Cafe was the best stop for breakfast/brunch in this rich hippie town so I thought, “Sounds good to me!”

It’s hippie awesome. The parking lot has a rain water drainage and catchment system that runs into the garden where they grow all of their greens, herbs, and some vegetables. Things here are down to earth, earth friendly, and natural. The jams are homemade, the desserts made to order, and the atmosphere is relaxed and cute. The cafe is owned and operated by a mother daughter team who do a lovely job.

The huevos rancheros are the best I have ever had. My over medium eggs were cooked to perfection, the black bean patties were a nice consistency with good flavor, the salsa verde was delicious, and the tortilla chips were crisp and salty. Top it all off with my mimosa served in a pint glass (!) and I was one happy road tripper.

I definitely recommend this place and am looking forward to the next time I can detour my road trip so I can be sure to stop on by.

Best Huevos Rancheros Ever

Best Huevos Rancheros Ever

Be Your Own Butcher, How to Cut and Package a Rib Eye Steak Primal

In my opinion, a Rib Eye is the best steak. Sure, there are more than a couple dozen of cuts of beef available from the nine to thirteen primary cuts (primal) in the United States and Canada with a new cut of beef being marketed every few years; i.e. Flat Iron Steak. However, when I consider what defines a good steak by American standards, the Rib Eye reigns supreme in the balance between flavor, texture and tenderness.

Prime Grade Grilled Rib Eye Steak

Hand Cut Prime Grade Rib Eye Steak Grilled on a Plate

My reasoning is simple. When a side of beef is being graded by the USDA; it is only the Rib that is being inspected for marbling (content and distribution of fat) within the rib muscle. This single inspection, traditionally done visually, but now being performed more often with a camera and image recognition software defines the grade; Prime, Choice, Select and Standard with Choice and Select most often being available in grocery stores. Combined with this sole inspection for marbling, the Rib and Short Loin cuts being positioned in the center of the cattle are not as tough as the Chuck, Round and Sirloin. No one can argue that the Tenderloin is the most tender cut of beef, but with little to no marbling, the overall flavor profile when grilled or broiled is lacking.

Raw Hand Cut Prime Grade Rib Eye Steak

Hand Cut Prime Grade Rib Eye Steak Raw on a Plate to be Seasoned

Here is the problem; even the cheapest cut of beef is becoming more and more expensive in the grocery store. It is becoming more and more difficult to find steak at an affordable price, yet alone purchasing Choice grade Rib Eye Steaks at a price per pound that is affordable. However, there are times when quality is more important than price and the experience is more important than just eating. Instead of purchasing individual prepackaged steaks, ask the butcher at the meat counter if you can purchase an entire Rib Eye Steak Primal also known as a Boneless Rib Eye. A sale is a sale and more often than not, because you are purchasing an entire primal you will be sold the entire Rib Eye Steak at a price per pound that is less than the price marked on the individual packages.

Why is it important to ask for a Boneless Rib Eye / Rib Eye Steak versus a Rib Eye?

The answer is that very few of us own a band saw that is clean enough to cut through the bone and muscle of a Bone-In Rib Eye Primal. You can however ask the butcher to cut the Bone-In Rib Eye for you and then package the steaks for the freezer yourself at home.

About a year ago I was able to purchase five whole USDA Prime Grade Rib Eye Steaks vacuumed packed and frozen that each weighed between 10 – 14 pounds. I gave two away to friends, immediately sliced one into steaks and later in the year sliced the second one into steaks. A year has passed and I was craving Rib Eye Steak.

Did the whole Rib Eye suffer from freezer burn in the freezer?

It did not, for the simple reason that since it was vacuumed packed with little to no air inside the packaging there was no means for the oxygen to “burn” the meat. My point in explaining this is that if you have the opportunity to purchase a whole primal and the freezer space to store the meat, then there is no need to rush and immediately cut the primal into individual steaks.

Frozen Whole Boneless Rib Eye Steak

Frozen Vacuumed Packaged Rib Eye Steak Primal

About 36 hours before I was planning to slice the Rib Eye Steak primal, I took the primal out of the freezer and placed it in the refrigerator to thaw.

Thawed Packaged Whole Boneless Rib Eye Steak

Thawed Vacuumed Packaged Rib Eye Steak Primal

After the primal had thawed, I removed the heavy gauge plastic packaging and then sharpened the two heavy kitchen knives I was going to use to break down the primal into steaks.

Whole Rib Eye Steak Primal , Fat Side Up

Whole Rib Eye Steak, Fat Side Up

  1. Place the Rib Eye Steak primal on a large cutting board, place the primal rib side down and slice through the primal in the middle, perpendicular to the cutting board to produce a straight cut creating two equal halves of the primal.

    Whole Rib Eye Steak Cut In Half

    USDA Prime Grade Rib Eye Steak Primal Cut In Half

  2. Place one half to the side and with the remaining half; remove a small portion of the rounded end so that both sides of the half primal are nicely squared. Put aside this removed rounded end of the primal.

    Squaring the The Rib Eye Primal for Hand Cutting into Steaks

    Removing the Rounded End of the Whole Rib Eye Steak

  3. Depending on the preferred thickness of the steaks you are prepared to slice, use the following rule. The thickness of your thumb will typically result in a steak between 10 – 12 ounces. Now I have fat thumbs, so I have to compensate and slice thinner than the thickness of my thumb unless of course I was 13 ounce or heavier steaks.

    Deciding the Thickness of the Hand Cut Rib Eye Steak

    How to Determine the Desired Thickness of the Hand Cut Rib Eye Steak

  4. Once you have decided the desired thickness of the steak, with a steady hand begin to slice the steaks away from the primal with long strokes of the knife applied with pressure with your other hand grasping the primal so it does not move. I prefer not to trim any of the excess fat from the edges of the steak, however this is a personal preference of the kitchen butcher. For me, every little amount of fat on the Rib Eye Steak as it melts on the grill helps produce that unique flavor of the Rib Eye.

    Hand Cut the Rib Eye Primal with Firm Pressure and Long Slicing Motion

    Hand Cutting Individual Steaks from the Rib Eye Primal

  5. Repeat this activity until the entire half of the primal has been sliced into hand cut steaks. Perform steps 2 to 4 for the second half of the primal until you have a stack of Rib Eye Steaks waiting to be individually packaged. The number of steaks generated will depend on the thickness of each hand cut steak, however, you can expect to slice more than 16 steaks from the primal.

    Stack of Hand Cut Rib Eye Steaks

    Stack of Hand Cut Rib Eye Steaks

  6. With a kitchen scale I weigh each steak individually. I do this so when it is time to pull the steaks out of the freezer, I know the weight so I can match the right steak with the individual that is going to be eating the steak.

    Hand Cut Rib Eye Steaks Being Weighed Individually on a Kitchen Scale

    Hand Cut Rib Eye Steaks Being Weighed Individually on a Kitchen Scale

  7. Stretch out a section on saran wrap on the kitchen counter and place the hand cut Rib Eye Steak on the saran wrap.

    Hand Cut Rib Eye Steak on Saran Wrap

    Rib Eye Steak on Saran Wrap

  8. Fold the saran wrap over the steak doing your best to remove any air pockets. As mentioned earlier, the less air in the packaging, the less opportunity for the steak to experience freezer burn.

    Tightly Warapped Rib Eye Steak in Saran Wrap

    Rib Eye Steak Wrapped in Saran Wrap

  9. Then lay out a section of aluminum foil and tightly wrap the saran wrapped steak in the aluminum foil.

    Saran Wrapped Rib Eye Steak on Aluminum Foil

    Saran Wrapped Rib Eye Steak on Aluminum Foil

  10. Securely fold the aluminum foil over the saran wrapped steak

    Rib Eye Steak Wrapped in Aluminum Foil

  11. With a permanent marker, record the weight, type of steak and date that the steak was hand cut and wrapped. Then with shipping tape, I tape down the ends of the aluminum foil to make a secure package for the freezer.

    Hand Cut Rib Eye Steak Packaged and Labelled Ready for the Freezer

    Hand Cut Rib Eye Steak Packaged and Labelled Ready for the Freezer

Once all of the Rib Eye Steaks have been packaged including the two end pieces for they are great as kabobs or as diced meat for steak and eggs, place all of the packaged steaks in the freezer. You now have individually hand cut Rib Eye Steaks for any time of the year or occasion whether for one person or an entire group.

Packaged Hand Cut Rib Eye Steaks Ready for the Freezer

Hand Cut Rib Eye Steaks Packaged for the Freezer

I have found that by wrapping each steak in saran wrap and then aluminum for with careful attention to removing all possible air pockets, the steaks will last in the freezer for an additional 6 months with no noticeable impact on flavor or texture.

Faux Gras – Silky Smooth Chicken Liver Pate

Chicken Liver Pâté is one of those things that can divide a group of people, and most of the people in the euurgh! camp, probably haven’t even tasted it. They are just put off by the idea of chicken livers. Since this chicken liver is silky smooth, I’m sure that everyone would it if you didn’t tell them what it was.

I love smooth chicken liver pate, but since coming to the US, I haven’t found it readily available in normal supermarkets, hence I’ve had to make it myself and it is pretty quick and easy to do. Personally I prefer Foie Gras, but since it is generally frowned upon, it is even harder to find, but good home-made ‘faux gras’, i.e. chicken liver pate, with lashings of butter is nearly as good.

Though many chefs will tell you that chicken livers should be just cooked so that they are still pink in the middle, there is a  high risk of food poisoning due to campylobacter, however you don’t want to over cook them. Frying the livers in a medium high skillet for about 5 minutes should be enough, but if you want to be sure, just cut one in half to check that it isn’t still pink.

Chicken Liver Pate Recipe

Total time: 30 mins
Ingredients

  • 1 lb (450g) of chicken livers
  • 2 or 3 medium shallots, chopped finely
  • 1 clove of garlic, chopped finely
  • 6oz of butter
  • 1 tbsp of brandy
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

    1. Drain and then thoroughly clean the chicken livers. Remove and discard any green-ish or dis-coloured bits, excess fat and any sinews.

      Cleaned Chicken Livers

      Cleaned Chicken Livers

    2. Heat a little oil in a large skillet and gently fry the chicken livers. Once they are brown, then turn them over and cook the other side. It should take about 4 or 5 minutes.

      Sauteing the chicken livers

      Sauteing the chicken livers

    3. Remove the chicken livers and add them to the food process bowl. Reduce the heat a little in the pan, and then sauté the shallots and garlic until they are soft. Remove the shallots and garlic to the food processor.

      Sauteing the shallots and garlic

      Sauteing the shallots and garlic

    4. Add the brandy to the pan to de-glaze it, being sure to scrape any bits from the bottom. Add the reduced brandy to the food processor.

      De-glazing the pan

      De-glazing the pan

    5. Add 4oz of softened butter to the food processor. Process all the ingredients until a silky, smooth consistency is achieved. Optionally you could pass the pate through a sieve, but it isn’t strictly necessary.

      All the pate ingredients in the food processor

      All the pate ingredients in the food processor

    6. Spoon the pate into suitable dishes or ramekins, and smooth the top. Allow the pate to cool. Optionally for decoration you can lay some dried herbs on to the top of the pate.

      Chicken Liver Pate in Ramekins

      Chicken Liver Pate in Ramekins

    7. Clarify some butter, i.e. melt 2oz of butter, and spoon off the milk solids. Pour the melted butter over the pate and place into the refrigerator.

      Chicken Liver Pate sealed in butter

      Chicken Liver Pate sealed in butter

    8. Allow the pate and butter to cool for a couple of hours and then enjoy thickly spread on toasted bread. The pate should keep for 4 or 5 days if you manage to keep your hands off it.

      Chicken Liver Pate on toasted bread

      Chicken Liver Pate on toasted bread